FASTTRACK SCHEDULE 10 CRACK FULL

Oh, and remember if you are attaching leads, etc., to do this before, etc. Someome posted a tutorial with pictures on this forum, oh, well more than a year ago. The next day, when hardened, slidce it off, flush, with a breadknife.

It generally puffs up, if you do it right, to cover the whole underside of the track and to a height of about 1 to 1.5 inches. Simple to do: turn the piece over, bead small strips of Great Stuff along the track underside about 1 inch apart, and let it expand overnight. Beyond all the usual methods with any layout (homesite or some such benchtop - I use acoustic celing tile myself, not using screws that go down into the solid benchtop wood, etc), the particular noise issues with Fastrack (unique to the plastic roadbed resonating and multiplying train noise) are addressed by filling the underside of each piece with Great Stuff expanding insulating foam. Remove the outside rail jumper underneath if appropriate. Try to make the section cuts so as to miss the ties in any case.įinally, if the fitter can be positioned where you need a block break or an insulated outside rail break, simply leave out the appropriate pin when re-assembling the two cut sections. If this can’t be met, then there will be a slight but virtually unnoticeable hiccup in the tie spacing. This corresponds to a scale tie spacing of 20”.

If you want to exactly match the FasTrack tie spacing, the removed section needs to be multiples of. If you need an odd portion of a curve (something other than a half or a quarter curve) then a custom cut curve will fill the bill.

FASTTRACK SCHEDULE 10 CRACK FULL

Since this is too short to make out of a full length section, you would be better off to replace one adjacent 10” section with a half section, and make a custom fitter 5.75” long.Ī custom fitter can of course consist of a straight section mated to a curved piece if required. Say you needed a fitter ¾” long to fit between two standard length sections. This means that the minimum practical custom fitter length is about 2.5”, though with a little finagling it could be made shorter. It is best to make no cuts closer than about 1-1/4” to either section end, so as not to disturb the end connectors or the screw holes used for fastening the track down. Though not necessary, plastic cement can be used optionally to glue the two roadbed pieces together, thus making the custom fitter a permanent piece. Then firmly push the other track end onto the pins and snug up the roadbed sections. You should find that the pins are a nice tight fit and no further crimping is required. This should leave about half the pin length protruding. Then insert the pins into one section until they butt up to the next plastic filler nub. (The nubs are located directly above each tie.) You will first need to drill out the plastic filler nubs in the tops of the rail ends using a 7/64” bit in your Dremel. This is best done in short spurts on each rail alternately, so as to avoid overheating and melting the plastic roadbed.Īfter cutting, use a file and dress the two cut ends to square them off and remove all burrs etc.Ĭomplete the re-assembly using O gauge tubular track pins in the mating rail ends to align the rails and provide electrical continuity, just as with tubular track. I then finish the cuts through the rails from the top side with a Dremel wheel fitted on a flex shaft. I start cutting by placing the piece upside down in a miter box and cutting the roadbed through with a hacksaw. I usually consider a custom fitter anytime I need two or more standard fitters in a section, or whenever standard fitters just won’t do it, or when a special trip to the LHS is just not timely.įirst examine the underside and mark the cut locations carefully so as to miss rail jumpers, tabs, braces, and the ties on top. The standard FasTrack fitters sometimes will not allow a loop closing gap of much less than one inch. You would take a 10” long piece and cut out 1.25”. This avoids disturbing the FasTrack end pins and connector tabs. This is done by making two cuts in the section, discarding the center piece, and re-connecting the ends. This is how I do it, and I hope this gives another perspective to Lionel's great FasTrack system, especially to those who may be considering going with Fastrack.Ī custom length fitter section can be made when needed, using any standard full length section, straight or curved.

Most people consider that it is not possible to make Fastrack fitters, but it can be done, and quite easily at that.

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